Erdem presented his fall 2019 collection in the beautiful National Portrait Gallery in London and gave a nod to mid-century sensibility, channeling Alfred Hitchcock and his muse, Tippi Hedren.
Makeup artist Val Garland took that as her starting point for this season’s graphic winged eyeliner — sharp enough to cut glass as you can see — and balm-covered lips.
Garland’s futuristic take on the ’50s cat eye featured a straight outer wing created with a gel liner topped with black shadow for added dimension. While the strong aerodynamic shape of the eye was pretty amazing, it was the clear balm on the lips that we were lusting after.
“It’s a wonderful lip balm on the lips with a beautiful sheen,” Garland said of the Nars Clean Cut Afterglow Lip Balm, which is part of the brand’s new spring collection and has popped up a few times this fall 2019 season. “It’s nothing, but everything. I’m in love with it.”
The coveted balm has no tint and gives lips a natural shine. It’s infused with antioxidants to keep lips hydrated and can be worn on bare lips (as seen in the show) or layered over another color for added depth. It’s pretty much perfect for everyone.
Brows were groomed and skin was dewy, fresh and gently concealed.
Hairstylist Anthony Turner brought major volume, teasing the hair into a high sculptural twist that had “a late-’50s/ early-’60s vibe, but weirdly alien-esque as well.” Turner explained backstage that Hitchcock had an obsession with the nape of the neck and for this collection, Erdem dipped the necklines of the coats as an homage; the hair was lifted to showcase the area.
Turner prepped the hair with L’Oréal Professionnel Full Volume Mousse, blow-drying it to give strands some grip. After splitting the hair into a top section (close to the hairline) and a bottom section, he pulled the bottom into a high ponytail secured at the crown. To add texture and intensify all the backcombing he was doing, he then added in some volumizing powder. “I need a lot of grit and structure in the hair,” he explained.
Once the tail was teased, he then looped it into a fuzzy, messy bun that acted as a base for the entire updo. Finally, using a bristle brush, he teased the front section of hair, brushed it back, and wrapped it over the messy bun to create a shape that was flat in the front and elongated in the back, like a French twist — if that French twist had landed on Earth from outer space.
Some of the models had their twist topped with a hat or headband connected to a voilette, or short face veil — an accessory that’s slowly become a favorite among high-fashion designers over the past few seasons.
Keep reading for even more Allure backstage beauty coverage:
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